Behind The Lens: Exploring The Isle Of Lewis & The Outer Hebrides
We're going behind the lens and back to March 2023 with this post, letting Jack tell the story of his trip to the Isle of Lewis.
"In early March, I decided to take some time before the season kicked off at the gallery to travel through the Outer Hebrides. I mentioned this in a recent Instagram post, but it's easy to get so busy with work that you don't get time to explore the places around you. I'd lost a bit of touch with that initial excitement I first had moving to the Scottish Highlands and needed to take a break and remind myself why I love this area so much.
So, Toivo and I bundled into the Land Rover and set off on an adventure to remember. I started with the Isle of Lewis, which I'd visited before but felt slightly unenamored with. The landscape here is mostly flat and barren, with lots of peat bogs and not many hills to climb. But as you'll read, this trip shifted my perception of Lewis for good reason.
The Ferry Journey to The Isle of Lewis
At 4:30pm, The ferry set off toward Lewis. We left Ullapool's bright blue skies and sun behind, with ominous-looking grey clouds stretching before us. The closer we got, the more the weather started to turn. For context, if you look at this portion of the sea on a map, you can see that there's no land to the north, allowing harsh northern winds to power down without any barrier, giving swells plenty of time to build up.
As the ferry headed out, we went into that stormy weather, I hunkered down with some friends I'd bumped into, resigned to the fact that I was in for a rough journey. It got dark, began to snow, and the sea got choppier. I knew I'd be able to manage with these conditions if the seas didn't get any choppier, and put all of my focus on the waves going up and down. One of my friends headed to the canteen, and when he came back an internal argument with myself began, with one part of me saying "Take a look at what he's got", and the other saying "Don't do it, just focus on the waves!". I ended up looking, which was a huge mistake. Let's just say I've been put off cream teas for a while!
The captain came on the radio and said the route back was cancelled because the weather was that bad, but I wouldn't be heading home for just over a week - plenty of time to settle my stomach. The two pictures below give you a good idea of what conditions were like.
Arriving at North Tolsta
(Possibly adjust to add this first sentence as more of a recommendation of a place you could park - it had facilities etc). I parked up for the night by a beach at North Tolsta and would recommend this if you wanted a spot that's quiet with facilities and a nice view to greet you as you wake up. If you want to explore North Tolsta further, a couple of good spots are Garry Beach and the Bridge to Nowhere, named because it genuinely doesn't go anywhere, after plans to build a road connecting Stornoway and Port of Ness were scrapped in the 1920s.
After a very cold night with continuous snow, I headed down to the beach to let Toivo have his morning run. The dramatic snow-capped scenery surrounded me, and for most of my time here I didn't see another soul. This was when I began to grow more appreciation for the wild nature of Lewis.
Port of Ness and The Butt of Lewis
After driving back to Stornoway to buy a second duvet (yes, it really was that cold), I headed to Port of Ness, a small village on the north of the island. Make sure you have a look at the photos I captured here below by clicking through the arrows on the right and left. The sun managed to come out between the snow clouds, which showed the beautiful colors of the sea in contrast to the weathered stones and grey surroundings. You can really get a feel for the harsh weather and stormy seas I experienced both here and on the ferry the day before.
From Port of Ness, I drove up to the northernmost point of the island, better known as the Butt of Lewis. Interestingly, this place was mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records as the windiest place in the UK.
The lighthouse here was built between 1859-1862, and stands at 121ft, surrounded by craggy rocks and cliffs. I got here in the afternoon, as the snowy weather began to ease for a while, adding some pinker hues and blue sky to the grey clouds. The images below really convey the wild barren nature of this spot, and the cliffs made for some adventurous dog walking. I'd say that this wild spot wouldn't be for everyone, but we were in our element!
A Changed Perception of Lewis
I felt really lucky throughout my time in Lewis that most of the places I went to were deserted, which made me feel more immersed in the landscape. Visiting in these wild and wintry conditions gave me a whole new perception of the island itself, which felt far more dramatic with the crashing waves and regular squalls. I'd recommend Lewis if you want to experience a less touristy area that comes with big open beaches alongside plenty of history & culture.
If you decide to visit Lewis, I'd also recommend heading to the Calanais Standing Stones on the southwest of the island, which are thousands of years old, dating back to the Neolithic people at around 2900 BC. I visited here the first time I came to Lewis, and they gave me a great idea of just how ancient this land is.
I hope you enjoyed this blog, there'll be plenty more to come, detailing this trip and many others. Let me know if you're planning on travelling around Lewis or the Outer Hebrides any time soon!
Isle of Lewis FAQs
How can you get to the Isle of Lewis? You can reach the Isle of Lewis by ferry from Ullapool on the northwest coast of Scotland to Stornoway, the main town on the island.
Where are Isle of Lewis campsites? Eilean Fraoich, Ardroil Campsite, Traigh na Beirigh, Laxdale Holiday Park
What is the main town on the Isle of Lewis? Stornaway, where you can find supermarkets, shops, and other things to do
Hidden Gems on Isle of Lewis? Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, Mangersta Bothy/Eagles Nest, Calanais Standing Stones, Port of Ness
